One of my favorite parts of this trip has been getting to know a few locals a bit, especially our tour guide, Naim. The more I learn about him, the more impressed I am.
I've especially enjoyed watching how his culture and manners almost seem old fashioned and quaint. He reminds me of a momma bear protecting and looking after her baby cubs--he takes great pains to make sure no one cuts in line in front of us or hassles us too much to buy something. And he also looks out for all the local kids roaming around the street, having stopped several fights between children who he doesn't even know. He has one of those kind, but stern, presences that they can't help but honor.
He has a huge desire to succeed at his work, and definitely does, knowing so much about the area. He's quite the Forrest Gump , seeming to know everyone and be everywhere. At the Garden of Gethsemane he showed us the tree that he had planted with the Pope 45 years ago, and told us about being knighted. We saw a baby picture of him a the Lutheran World Federation Hospital where he was born.
The other day when we had a guest tour guide from ICAHD she showed us the technical border between East and West Jerusalem, and just west of that border used to be Palistinian homes but now is occupied by Israelis. We could tell that this was a sensitive subject, and later found out that Naim's former home had been one of those houses.
Even as he has endured all of these injustices, he is still polite and cordial to EVERYONE around us. We keep asking him questions along the lines of how he thinks conflict and war could eventually be resolved in this area, but that thought is totally foreign to him. He has no illusion of the fighting ever stopping, it's all he has ever known, and all he would even imagine for the future. His perception of things is so different from mine that it's hard for me to even begin to comprehend.
And yet, he is simply overjoyed to have food and water, to have work to do for today. Living one day at a time, hoping only for something to eat and drink.
Last night in Bethlehem we went to a store filled with intricately hand carved wood pieces, owned by friends' of Naim. And they too were literally ecstatic that we might give them some business. Before we bought anything they gave us refreshments, a 20% discount and excellent customer service. The exact opposite of the vendors in Isreal who had angrily yelled at us for not stopping.
After leaving the store Naim gave each of us a pin to show his gratitude. His worn hands handed me a small intricately carved dove. I looked into the eyes of a Palestinian man, after having seen so many negative images and sterotypes of Palestinians, here was a man who has been a victim of so many injustices, and he was handing me a sign of peace. A small intricately carved sign of peace.
And I haven't stopped holding it since.
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