Palm Sunday

We spent Palm Sunday morning in a lovely worship service (in Arabic) at The Evangelical Lutheran Christmas Church, and then went to watch the march into Jerusalem and to take Communion.

People from all over the world sang joyful songs and waved palm branches as they walked; it was a great atmosphere to take in, and so nice to see all the people from varying walks of life. All week, it has been amazing to see the diversity of people coming to the Holy Land, people from all over the world coming to remember Jesus.


And now, forty hours later, we've made it through all the security and gotten home safely.

This week our group, consisting of people from 20 to 71 years of age, from all over the US, both Methodists and Lutherans, found community with each other.


We remembered many acts of God as cited in the Bible, but also observed God working in our lives and those around us, looking out our day to day lives and observing as best we could the day to day lives of others, we saw with our own eyes acts of God no less miraculous than those recorded in the Bible.

I am still trying to wrap my head around the strength that we saw in each person we met, and have been reminded of the real truth that no matter what terrible situations might befall humans, those who are open to God will find peace.

As we send so many prayers in their direction for peace, for the fighting to stop, I have forgotten the importance of their inner peace. God's peace.

And as I hope I never forget to pray for every Holy Land residents' peace, my prayer is also that we may have learned from their fortitude. That we may each search for that peace within ourselves, and recognize the holy in each other. That we may always continue to search for God's peace.

Shalom.

Bethlehem

We went to Masada, where some of the Jewish people tried to hide out while the Romans destroyed Jerusalem. And to the Dead Sea where, with 47 % salt, it was much easier to float horizontally than vertically. And on the beach of the Dead Sea we took mud baths in the spa. We also visited Qumran, where they found the dead sea scrolls.



On the highway we saw several trucks with tanks on the back

Then we came to Bethlehem where, according to one of our tour guides, people don't believe they are born to enjoy life.

When a solution to all their political conflicts seems so far off and unattainable, a reason to live holds the utmost importance. Art holds the utmost importance.

But Dar Al-Kalima (funded by ELCA) is bringing art to the people, in several forms. There is a Dar Al-Kalima college for students studying liberal arts, where even their library is filled with books that had to be smuggled in (yeah, you read that right--crazy!) And they also have concerts open to the general public.

They also have a school for kids from age 3 to 12th grade, where they not only teach the core subjects but have several after school clubs available, everything from music to volleyball. It is composed of 43% Christians and 57% Islams, so they seperate for religion classes most of the time, but come together once a month to talk about the similarities between the two religions. They talk about the similarities, and not the differences, and how they should live together peacefully. Every single kid had a smile on his/her face, and were happy to welcome us and sing us the songs they've been learning.

Dar Al-Kalima also has a Health & Wellness Center, where they provide dance, yoga, swimming etc. but also counseling services, which I'm sure is a huge help to Palestinian people of all ages. None of the Dar Al-Kalima services are free because they want to make sure they are not taken for granted, but scholarships are available for the schools.

We met the man who started the Bethlehem Bible College, who again affirmed all we have heard about the political situation. He also told us a bit about his story, about his dad (a civilian) who was shot when he was two. His mother and seven children had to go to the refugee camp.

We talked to another man who told us about the refugee camps and gave us a tour of the Deheisheh Refugee Camp, where the main problems are lack of work and space. They only have one doctor for all 12,000 people living in the camp (he can see 400 patients in 3 hours).

For dinner we went to Shepard Valley, which was a fun "Bedouin-style" environment, with foods similar to what we have been eating. For the first course pita bread, with hummus salsa (and other sauces that I honestly can't tell you what they are), olives, egg plant, radishes, coleslaw and salad (all immersed with vinegar). For the main course it has always been some sort of meat, usually something I'm not familiar with, we think tonight's meat was either lamb or goat. And after dinner we ended the evening nicely by hitting the sweet shop.

Sea of Galilee

Today we went to the Church of the Beatitudes and enjoyed the lovely garden filled with hibiscus. And then to Tabgha, the church to commemorate the feeding of the 5000, of which the ambience was further enhanced by violinists playing outside. Then to the village of Capernaum, where they have compiled all of the ruins from the town of Jesus. Saw the Wedding Church, and went to several gift shops.

We visited the place where Jesus told Peter that he was the rock of the church, and we recieved Communion there on the beach. But right before and right after our short service there were noisy people all over the place, but during the homily, communion, and passing of the peace, we had the place to ourselves. And it was such a blessed silence.

We got knee deep in the Jordan river and renewed our Baptisms.

And went on a boat ride on the Galilee, which was breathtakingly gorgeous, and so nice to feel the breeze on our faces. We had the whole relatively large boat to ourselves, and sang and danced while we were sailing.

Took pictures of Jane doing cartwheels all over the place...

And hung out on our hotel roof, which has an awe inspiring view.

Today really allowed us to be silly and just have fun, laugh and dance, which I think is just what we needed after the last few intense days.

Bethlehem

Today we checked out Mt. Carmel and the beautiful church commerating it. It's been an absolutely beautiful day, so we got ice cream bars and enjoyed them on the bay. And then we went down the street to Bahi's shrine (Baha'i combined Judaism Islam and Christianity) The memorial for Bahai was on the length of a steep hill, the Persian Gardens. I feel myself tiring of saying the word "beautiful." But it was, very much so.

We went to Nazareth Village, a museum depicting what Nazareth was like 2000 years ago. The tour was silly, fun, included a lot of sarcasm, and really brought the time period to life, explaining all of Jesus' first century references. It was also nice, after having seen many gaudy shrines, to see the simplicity of Jesus' way of life.

On our way to the Church of the Annunciation we ran into a parade (for The Feast of the Annunciation) fully equippt with bagpipes and bugles. So we hung out and watched for awhile before seeing the breath-taking stained glass windows at the church.

Having left Jerusalem, the tensions have been much less high and we've had a nice relaxing day. And Naim said that tomorrow will probably be the highlight of our trip.

Naim

There are amazing people everywhere, in every group of people, every nationality, every religion.

One of my favorite parts of this trip has been getting to know a few locals a bit, especially our tour guide, Naim. The more I learn about him, the more impressed I am.

I've especially enjoyed watching how his culture and manners almost seem old fashioned and quaint. He reminds me of a momma bear protecting and looking after her baby cubs--he takes great pains to make sure no one cuts in line in front of us or hassles us too much to buy something. And he also looks out for all the local kids roaming around the street, having stopped several fights between children who he doesn't even know. He has one of those kind, but stern, presences that they can't help but honor.

He has a huge desire to succeed at his work, and definitely does, knowing so much about the area. He's quite the Forrest Gump , seeming to know everyone and be everywhere. At the Garden of Gethsemane he showed us the tree that he had planted with the Pope 45 years ago, and told us about being knighted. We saw a baby picture of him a the Lutheran World Federation Hospital where he was born.

The other day when we had a guest tour guide from ICAHD she showed us the technical border between East and West Jerusalem, and just west of that border used to be Palistinian homes but now is occupied by Israelis. We could tell that this was a sensitive subject, and later found out that Naim's former home had been one of those houses.

Even as he has endured all of these injustices, he is still polite and cordial to EVERYONE around us. We keep asking him questions along the lines of how he thinks conflict and war could eventually be resolved in this area, but that thought is totally foreign to him. He has no illusion of the fighting ever stopping, it's all he has ever known, and all he would even imagine for the future. His perception of things is so different from mine that it's hard for me to even begin to comprehend.

And yet, he is simply overjoyed to have food and water, to have work to do for today. Living one day at a time, hoping only for something to eat and drink.

Last night in Bethlehem we went to a store filled with intricately hand carved wood pieces, owned by friends' of Naim. And they too were literally ecstatic that we might give them some business. Before we bought anything they gave us refreshments, a 20% discount and excellent customer service. The exact opposite of the vendors in Isreal who had angrily yelled at us for not stopping.

After leaving the store Naim gave each of us a pin to show his gratitude. His worn hands handed me a small intricately carved dove. I looked into the eyes of a Palestinian man, after having seen so many negative images and sterotypes of Palestinians, here was a man who has been a victim of so many injustices, and he was handing me a sign of peace. A small intricately carved sign of peace.

And I haven't stopped holding it since.

Last day in Jerusalem

We started out the day by looking out over Jerusalem to get a feel for where everything we've been seeing is in relation to each other. I've been constantly surprised by how close everything is, events everywhere from Genesis to Revelation. (And also, later in the day walking Via Dolorosa, seeing all 15 stages of the cross in just a number of blocks.) Looking out over Jerusalem's beauty, there is no wall for us to see but that does not mean that the city is united.

In 1948 Jerusalem's 18 hosipitals all fell on the west side of the border, thus the Lutheran World Federation built a hospital on the East side licensed for 170 beds. The hospital building is absolutely beautiful, and anyone is welcome to come get care. This helps treat both patients' physical ailments and their psyche. The hospital provides secular psycho-social treatment by both Muslims and Christians. But also many patients come from Gaza, and leaving Gaza in itself is emotionally healing, according to the the Holy Land's ELCA representative. Because it's so difficult to get from Gaza to the hospital, going through all of the security check points, many patients have to stay in the area. Thus the ELCA converted a hotel by the Mt of Olives into a Ronald McDonald like house.

Even though the ELCA rep and ICAHD (from yesterday's tour) were from different circles, they each gave us exactly the same perspective about the politics of the area, agreeing on everything down to quantitative facts and figures.

We also had the opportunity to talk to the Bishop, who told us about trying to encourage Palestinians by both remembering their Christian identity as they are living in the Holy Land, and also educating them. When we asked what we could do to help he said to pray for them, and--with emphasis--to not forget them. But when prompted for something tangible we might be able to help with, he said he would e-mail us as things came up.

Then we crossed to the other side of the wall for the first time, to go to Bethlehem. And I can definitely see how, even with full permission, this is quite an inconvenience for the Palestinians.

Bethlehem is no longer what I picture from the days of the Bible. You are much more likely to see rubble and trash than sheep, or even grass. The buildings which had been damaged from enemy fire remained in ruin because they can not bring cement or glass into Bethlehem. But we did get to see the beautiful churchs commemorating the spot of Jesus' birth.

It's been a nice day of tying together all the things we've seen here in Jerusalem and we're ready to take in more of Bethlehem

Hope

Today I was struck by a few unique aspects of the Jewish culture. While driving down a busy narrow road, a car slowed down just enough for an elderly man to jump out. Probably in his late 70s wearing a yarmulke and hunched over so much that he could touch the ground, he made his way over to the nearest car. He talked to the driver for only a few moments before getting in and speeding off. And the place where we had lunch was very intimate, with no background piped in music and the waiter only came in once to change courses. The lack of background noise was incredibly apparent.

At the Garden of Gethsemane there were trees that were approximately 2000 years old, organized in rows just like gardens are today. Even though these trees had been chopped off and have seen so many battles, they still thrive. What a fitting place for Jesus to receive strength, next to these everlasting trees.

The Holocaust Memorial Museum was incredibly powerful, showing the story of the Holocaust through so many faces and voices. The Museum is laid out such that visitors can watch how it unfolded, from small injustices to humanity at it's worse. And after witnessing this for a few hours--only a few hours, while this was the reality of so many lives for years and years--I was ready to turn around and leave. I didn't think I could take anymore. And being in the midst of viewing so much pain and hardship, the end of the Museum greeted me with hope.

We also had a tour from The Israeli Committee Against House Demolitions, heard--from a Jewish Israeli--a compelling argument for the end of occupation in Palestine.

Coming from the Holocaust Memorial Museum, we had just seen what the Jews had endured as a nation. The instilled fear that must be so ingrained in their hearts and minds, passed on to their grandchildren. It is incredibly understandable that the Jewish people would have that fear imbedded and want to take any precautions for their safety.

But, as our tour guide stated it, she felt that that fear had been exploited by the Israeli Government in order to drive out the Palestinians (so that they will have a majority of Jewish residents). The main government restriction that can not be justified as a means of security is the zoning laws and demolition of houses--Palestinians are not allowed to build unless they get permission to do so, and they don't get that permission. And if they were to build a house they would be in constant danger of demolition (demolition with, on average, 15 minutes notice)

As we drove past the settlement, there was an obvious drastic difference in government funding just by looking at it. The roads were not well paved and the sidewalks disappeared, and trash was all over the ground with no public dumpsters. There was a heart breaking amount of empty space where houses could have been built, while people were pouring out of the broken down homes that did stand. But through all this wreckage, our tour guide had this amazing sense of peace, and hope that everything would work out.

There was quite a juxtaposition between the different places we went today. Reflecting on Jesus praying in the Garden of Gethsemane, the Holocaust, and current conflict between Israel and Palestine. In each there was/is immense suffering, but each gave me a surprising sense of hope.

Today brought up more questions than it answers. But as Jesus said in the Garden of Gethsemane "not my will, but yours be done" (Luke 22:42.5). Even Jesus had to accept that which he didn't fully understand. And, today, as I'm utterly overwhelmed with all that has happened in the Holocaust and all that is happening here today, I need to believe that God's will will be done. That there is some hope at the end of the Museum, and that maybe that hope, the hope in itself, is what makes these people keep going, what makes their lives bearable. The thought of a better tomorrow might make today more enjoyable.

And as we keep asking these questions, we will continue to be aware. Without ever finding answers, our awareness will help us to search for the real truths of who God is. And who we are.

We're here! We're here!

Upon arrival the first words out of our tour guide's mouth were "Welcome home." And, indeed, it feels like we are.

Everything is absolutely beautiful, rolling hills and all the buildings made of stone. There is a sense of this town that it is a place where God resides, such a spiritual energy. There has been so much prayer directed here, and it holds so much history. Even though we're not really sure where exactly the historical events happened, the strong truths the monuments represent is very real.

Our first stop of the day was Church of the Redeemer, a small stone Lutheran church with people flowing over the pews. The pastor had a commanding presence from the first moment he spoke, and held my attention throughout the service. Even from accross the world, the liturgy and spiritual practices were very familiar. The service was in English, but "Jesus Remember Me" and the Lord's Prayer were sung and spoken in many different languages by the members of the congregation.

Our next stop was the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Constantine's mother, Helena, built the church to commemorate the place where evidence of the Hill of Calvary was found. And man, it was a STEEP hill, can't even imagine how much strength it took to carry a cross up it.

Once at the top there was a place to kneel beneath the altar and touch the place where Jesus's cross might have stood in the ground. Even there, at this holy place, there was quite a bit of bickering about waiting in line and taking pictures. The reminders have been everywhere today that anywhere where this many people with differing cultures and faiths come together there is sure to be several misunderstandings and disagreements, just because each group of people has a different way of doing things that they each think are correct.


From there we marched over to zion, walking through narrow cobblestone streets, filled with people and small shops. The stores were narrow and deep, with merchandise crammed into every available spot. And there was a lot of action--it was great to get a sense of the local buzz. The housing area is split up into three sections, one for each of the three groups: Christians (Arabs and Armeanians), Muslims, and Jewish people.

At the wailing wall there was an amazing sense of tradition. We watched the Jewish people wash their hands before they prayed, using the cups that were supplied in the bathrooms, by first filling the cup and then pouring it over their left hand, then their right and then washing both with soap. And such a profound silence close to the wall, and of reverence--most people didn't even turn their back to the wall as they walked away, but left walking backwards.


While listening to a beautiful call to prayer we walked to Bethesda pool and St. Anne's Church. Not only are the "upper pools" believed to be those mentioned in Kings and Isaiah, but also the site of where Jesus healed a paralytic. The ruins were absolutely breath-taking. And only a few yards away was St. Anne's Church, with such acoustics that the building itself could be considered a musical instrument.

It's been a wonderful day, and we can't wait to experience the adventures that will unfold tomorrow.